above: The downstairs bar is also a popular spot for dining
Talia serves up classics that surprise with flavors that span continents
Design is in the details, and the same can be said for a memorable meal. Seemingly small touches and thoughtful preparation make a dinner shine, and at Talia, a new modern Italian eatery in Port Chester, attention to detail is served in abundance. Talia is Chef Ian Vest’s first restaurant, named for his daughter; but he’s no stranger to top kitchens, having spent years at Michelin-starred Daniel and DBGB Kitchen & Bar in New York.
He was also at the helm of Back 40 Kitchen. With Talia, he has created an inviting space and a global menu with an emphasis on favorite dishes with a twist.
We dined at Talia on a Wednesday evening, when the snow was still piled high around streets and parking lots. We were welcomed into the warm, modern dining room, surprised to find most tables, as well as the bar, full on such a frigid weeknight. For the décor, garden-themed wallpaper stretches behind the bar backed with gold accents. At the back of the restaurant, open windows allow a peek into the kitchen and chefs at work. In the dining room, simple wooden tables are flanked by woven-backed chairs, banquettes are upholstered teal and oil paintings adorn the walls. Upstairs, there’s a second dining room and a U-shaped bar that draws a crowd on weekends, a space that can also be reserved for private events.
Talia’s menu appeals for its versatility, spanning Italian, French and Asian-influenced cuisine, as well as its shareability—from the Morsi starters (bites) such as deviled eggs with kimchi and arancini stuffed with prosecco-laced parmesan to the Neapolitan style pizzas and homemade pastas. Among the antipasti are dishes that seem familiar but have tweaks or unexpected ingredients that put the chef’s distinctive stamp on them. For instance, a salmon tartare is plated in a bath of a coconut milk and smoked shoyu, served with light rice crips, lending an Asian flair to the dish. The crispy polenta starter gets a decadent kick from smoked garlic crème. What could have been a standard Romaine wedge or Caesar salad becomes something more ethereal with the sprinkling of salmon roe on top, briny pops that balance the bites of radish, all dressed in a lush anchovy vinaigrette.
The pastas, made in-house, can be ordered appetizer or entrée size. We tried a Rigatoni Bolognese for a main, a dish that’s slightly lighter than the classic due to chicken meat (as opposed to beef or wild boar), but nothing is sacrificed as far as creamy pasta goodness with ample cheese and fresh basil. On our next visit, we will definitely try the chef’s cacio e pepe or carbonara. Either as a main or shareable starter, the pizza does not disappoint with its airy, crispy crust that isn’t burned on the bottom.
Throughout our dinner, service was smooth and attentive, with two servers helping our table and Chef Ian making the rounds in the dining room, stopping to chat with people at every table. The party next to us was celebrating a birthday and the guest of honor was asking about a Bordeaux on the wine list. We heard him tell the server, “I love this wine so much, and it’s very hard to find. Do you have any more bottles? I’ll buy them off you.”
In addition to the strong wine list, the cocktails and mocktails reflect a creative mix with less expected ingredients such as celery bitters in a Gimlet and black currant foam in the Kyoto Affair. We opted for the Red Shift mocktail made from hibiscus, honey, allspice, lemon and ginger, a soothing blend for a chilly evening.
To cap the meal, we tried a dessert special of chocolate mousse set in a wreath of toasted marshmallow meringue and flecked with sea salt; it was heavenly enough to make us compete for each bite. As with the rest of the menu, each dessert choice was something distinctive. Between the chic-but-casual ambience and the creative menu choices, we left knowing we will be back soon to indulge in more.
Chef Ian’s Faves
App
Carbonara pasta: Spaghetti Alla Chitarra, Guanciale, Onion, Egg Yolk, Parmesan
Entrée
Aged duck breast: Sweet Potato Brûlée, Miso, Black Garlic Jus
Dessert
Talia tiramisu: Befana Cookie, Mascarpone Espuma, Caramel, Vanilla Gelato
Cocktail
Blue filth: Stilton-infused vodka, Vermouth, Castelvetrano olive
Talia
25 Willett Avenue, Port Chester, New York,
914-417-6136; talia-restaurant.com