above: Fresh herbs are plentiful on the pastas and pizzas.
The Barressi Brothers transform a hidden gem in “Vicolo Alley” into a vibrant culinary destination.
Eeryone’s buzzing about the transformation of the once-unassuming pizza spot tucked at the bottom of the alley near the New Canaan Firehouse. Brothers and partners Joseph and Louis Barressi of Doppio Greenwich were immediately drawn to the possibilities of the brick-lined “Vicolo Alley,”which descends from Main Street to the restaurant. Now landscaped and lined with arborvitae, it’s evolved into a terraced outdoor dining space that evokes the charm of al fresco dining in Italy.
Inside, six new windows brighten the once dark pizza parlor. It’s now a chic, cozy yet airy room that makes you want to sink into the velvety moss-green banquets. Marble-topped tables are set with green water glasses, and flickering candlelight creates a soothing light. Contemporary versions of midcentury chairs give a streamlined feel to the room. The palette is warm white, sage green and black with bronze accents on contemporary lighting.
At the bar, the most popular cocktail is the alluringly smoky Loca Rosa—mescal mixed with fresh watermelon and lime juices, garnished mint and tajin rim. The herbal, citrusy Day Dream is vodka infused with Earl Grey tea and herbs, garnished with orange and fresh lavender, which add to the sensory experience. Now and through winter, bartenders will be making a hot toddy, spiced with apple cider syrup, cardamom and fall spices. The spirit-free mocktails include a Phony Negroni.
The menu is a direct transplant from Doppio Greenwich. (Doppio means “double” in Italian.) The Barressi brothers opened the first Doppio in 2011, to create a fresh take on an Italian restaurant—traditional dishes served in a contemporary, more informal setting. They began baking 12-inch pizzas in Doppio’s oven, using their own dough made from Italian 00 flour and three other flours for added structure. The toppings are a mix of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and imports from Italy. At Doppio New Canaan, the thin crust pizzas boast puffy blistered edges with a pleasing chewy texture. The pizza menu is divided into two categories: Rosse (red) and Bianche (white). The Rosse pizzas include classics like Margherita and New York-style Bleecker Street, while the Bianchi pizzas run from the Amalfi Coast (with a base of pureed zucchini, mozzarella and crisp fried zucchini, lemon, stracciatella, chilis and basil) to the Belle Haven (with gorgonzola, pear and truffle oil).
Antipasti include an herb-filled watermelon and feta salad, topped with thinly sliced fennel and grilled octopus tentacles. Whole parsley leaves, sprigs of dill and mint leaves add a burst of freshness to this lively starter. Tuna tartare is a popular dish, featuring cool, glistening tuna, citrus soy sauce, avocado, orange segments, scallions and whole parsley leaves. What makes this dish Italian? The whole parsley leaves, maybe. Does it matter? It’s delicious.
Doppio’s penne alla vodka is a hearty dish, with rich, orange-hued sauce that coats the pasta’s ridges and tunnels. “You like it spicy?” they asked us. We do. When the plate arrived, the fresh capsicum oils rising from the hot Italian peppers filled the air. Bright green basil leaves were scattered across plate and the vivid red, green and orange colors transformed the plate of pasta into art. Finely grated Parmesan, light and fluffy, melted instantly when sprinkled over the dish.
The secondi menu has all the classic Italian-American chicken dishes: scarpiello, francese, parmigiana and milanese. The salmon and branzino are accompanied by seasonal vegetables, accented with pureés and pestos. For steak lovers, there’s a New York strip and a Wagyu skirt steak on the menu.
Dessert was a highlight: a deeply rich chocolate (70 percent) mousse mixed with hazelnut praline topped with chocolate crumbles touched with sea salt. It’s an exquisite way to end a meal, especially when accompanied by a strong espresso.
On the evening we visited, every seat Doppio was filled. There’s an undeniable energy here and, given their popularity of the original Doppio, the Barressi brothers are likely to have double the success with this new venture.
Below: Scenes from an evening at Doppio—penne alla vodka, outdoor dining, fresh pizza, innovative cocktails (The Day Dreamer) and chocolate mousse with espresso.
Doppio
62 Main Street, New Canaan
eatdoppio.com