above: Co-owner Randy Kemka’s wife Jenn serves up jumbo chicken wings • In addition to the 11 beers on tap, brews are available in four packs to go
PHOTOGRAPHY BY VENERA ALEXANDROVA
What’s on tap at the new Greenwich Brewing Company is something we’ve all been craving: elevated pub fare at reasonable prices. The approachable, comfort-food menu includes award-winning fried chicken, wings, smash burgers, salads and, of course, locally-made beer plus vodka seltzers, juices and sodas. On the drinks menu, there’s a list of “four-packs to go”—a hint at the fact that Greenwich Brewing is not only a stand-alone pub but also a beverage brand. You can bring home a four-pack, purchase the beer in stores around town or order it at local restaurants (Hinoki, Miku, Polpo and more) and clubs (Milbrook and Innis Arden). The list of vendors continues to grow.
“I’ve been saying for years that Greenwich needs a brewery,” says Randy Kemka, who’s been working in the beer space for more than a decade and is one of the owners along with a group of families who also live in town. With his expertise and years of planning, Randy and his partners managed to launch our first brewery restaurant and beer and beverage line at the same time. “We wanted to bring really good food at good prices. It shouldn’t be so damn expensive to feed a family. This is something regular families can enjoy.”
On a recent chilly Friday evening, the place was just about full at 5:30 p.m. with a mix of families with kids, couples and a group of guys who looked like they just got out of work, toasting the weekend over different beers. The space houses a bar as well as high-top and regular tables. Wood-lined walls keep the place cozy, while twin TVs welcome customers to linger over an IPA or CT Lager and watch sports.
For those who want drinks and bites rather than a full meal, the sizeable list of starters will satisfy. We loved the crispy “Greenwich Truffle” fries lightly coated with parmesan cheese and herbs, and the pickle fries, which look like regular fries but are made of pickles and served with two dipping sauces. Though the menu skews toward indulgence, there are greens available, too, and we enjoyed the Greenwich Salad, a simple mix of kale and arugula with grape tomatoes, cucumber and red onion.
By far my favorite part of our meal came from the “King of the Coop” section of the menu, which features fried chicken that I later learned is a recipe created by a Southern chef who won “Best Fried Chicken” for six years in a row. This is the real deal: tenders of meat inside a crunchy, seasoned coating that can be ordered on a potato roll, a wrap, with pimento cheese (the Dirty Bird) or just on its own with pickles, fries and king sauce. You pick the level of spice you prefer from basic Country (salt & pepper) to Nashville Hot. We opted for the latter, which was the perfect degree of spiciness, easy to enjoy and not a heat that lingered. All entrées are served on metal trays, very casual style. Also there’s a “Jr. Sailors” menu for little ones.
Pairing a beer or another drink with your food is definitely part of the fun. Most of the beers have a nautical or sailing-themed name, referencing our town’s coastal location, and all are available as small pours (five-ounce and eight-ounce) as well as pints, to encourage sampling. When asked to name his favorite GB beer, Randy says, “That’s like trying to pick your favorite child!” But he noted that the CT Lager is an easy-drinking, crisp, clean lager that’s popular with people who aren’t into craft beer or IPAs. Cardinal Red is the aptly named amber ale (the owners are big GHS Cardinal fans), while the Hop Anchor IPA is a hazy, juicy pale ale. An English brown ale, a porter, a German lager and a hard cider round out the list of brews that will change regularly.
There are wines by the glass and non-alcoholic sodas and juices as well as Cosmix, vodka-based fruit drinks. Try the Painkiller, which riffs on the island cocktail with tropical flavors of pineapple, tangerine and coconut, but lighter and more refreshing than the original. Randy says he worked closely with brewers and industry talent to develop the best recipes. In addition, “We went through lots of research and development—drinking,” he says with a laugh. Cheers to hard work that pays off.
GREENWICH BREWING COMPANY
109 Greenwich Avenue, 203-485-0400;
greenwichbrewingcompany.com
Greenwich Brewing Company beers and Cosmix drinks can be purchased at Glenville Wine & Spirits, Rock’s Wine & Spirits and Old Greenwich Wine Merchants.