above: To create a Mediterranean fine dining experience at BarVera, local restaurateur Myrna Lahood teamed up with Executive Chef Charbel Hayak.
Images courtesy of restaurant
Warm hospitality is a signature of BarVera Mediterranean, just as much as the hot, puffy pitas the chefs bake in the kitchen’s brick oven—and there’s no better way to settle into this cozy new restaurant with a menu by “Top Chef” winner Charbel Hayak than with the mezze trio platter.
It’s meant to be shared, this colorful array of spreads, bread and fresh veggies. Hummus, rich with tahini, bright with lemon, slicked with olive oil, garnished with whole garbanzos, is silky smooth. Baba ghanouj, smoky, meltingly soft eggplant, is scattered with sparkling pomegranate seeds. Muhammara, a pretty puree of red bell pepper, walnut and pomegranate, is garnished with a mint leaf. Rainbow carrots, slices of cucumber and glistening green, brown and black olives nestled in leaves of baby romaine are ready for dipping. The house-baked pita is piping hot, puffy, wheaty and substantial, the best we’ve ever torn into.
Chef Hayak won “Top Chef, Middle East and North Africa (MENA).” He was born and raised in Beirut, Lebanon, home of one of the world’s great cuisines. He was the executive chef at Ladyhawk in Los Angeles and wrote Lemon and Garlic: Middle Eastern Cuisine. Longtime Fairfield County restaurateur Myrna LaHood and her husband own and operate BarVera and Greenwich Flavor by Myrna’s.
Chef Hayak has created a menu that doesn’t overwhelm the diner. To make manouche, the chefs bake a dough that has fermented for 48 hours into a disk topped with zaatar, a blend of herbs and spices, or akkawi, a brined white cheese similar to feta.
There are two pizzas, classic Margherita and trendy hot honey four cheese, and there are two pastas. Pistachio pesto clung to the al dente orecchiette, showered with finely grated Parmesan, which melted into the herby, nutty sauce.
We noticed servers delivering many plates of shish tawook to tables. The chunks of grilled marinated chicken thighs are served with rice, pickles, garlic sauce and pita. Our server kindly offered to remove the chicken from the skewer. The menu also features tender lamb shank over pearl couscous and duck confit duck with poached pears, with a touch of rose water and honey.
A sprightly salad of frisée and parsley and shiso leaves perched over the grilled branzino filets, which rested in herby green harissa sauce. Grilled asparagus and a nice wedge of lemon rounded out this satisfying dish. Myrna also recommended the burger, adorned with brown butter onions and sumac pickled onions. The chefs triple cook the fries to achieve a puffy crispness, then dust them in spice. Guests can order them as a shareable (or not) starter.
The house-baked lemon olive oil cake is the lightest I have ever tried. A ring of whipped ricotta filled with a spoonful of limoncello syrup adorned the cake, which was showered with lemon zest. Every bright forkful was a joy. Chef Hayak’s take on affogato is special too—a frozen martini glass of vanilla gelato with a shot of espresso melting into a widening well. It’s sprinkled with pistachio brittle.
Black and white photos from all over the Mediterranean hang from the white-paneled wall in the simple, cozy room. There are 50 seats in the dining room and four comfortable seats at the bar, which faces a hand-painted mural. Four signature cocktails feature Middle Eastern ingredients, including a Lebanese espresso martini with cardamom and the Pom-grenade, a smoky rum, coconut and pomegranate blast. The wine list is also focused, covering the bases with old and new world reds, whites and rosés. Arak, the anise-flavored unsweetened liqueur served over ice, is an old-school tradition and an acquired taste for the uninitiated.
On the evening we visited, guests filled the room with the buzz of conversation and conviviality. Myrna Lahood greeted everyone warmly. This is a family-run restaurant of professionals who want to share their love of Mediterranean culture and cuisine. With an additional 30 outdoor seats, BarVera is destined to be a favorite sidewalk dining spot, so call ahead for reservations.
Open for dinner and soon to be open for lunch. 148 Bedford Street. For more details, visit barverarestaurantgroup.com or follow @barvera.mediterranean on Instagram.