above: (left) Mike Pietrafeso brings authentic Mexican fare to Glenville. (right) The perfect trifecta: brisket marinated in adobo and braised in an aromatic spicy broth, grilled chicken thighs marinated with citrus and herbs and spices, rubbed shrimp a la plancha with lime and fresh herbs
PHOTOGRAPHY BY VENERA ALEXANDROVA
In creating the concept for his newest eatery, Bluebird Taqueria, chef and local business owner Mike Pietrafeso found inspiration close to home. The Greenwich native, who also owns Roost Kitchen & Coffee in Cos Cob, Darien and Fairfield, loved the homestyle Mexican that one of his chefs, Santiago Juarez, would whip up for company parties and family celebrations. Santiago and his brothers made the most flavorful birria tacos and other traditional Mexican dishes. They were so delicious, Mike recalls, that he kept saying, “We’ve gotta do this. We should share this with people.’”
Late last year, Mike opened the doors of the taqueria, which serves authentic, crowd-pleasing Mexican meals. Chef Santiago is heading up the kitchen, and his wife, Silviana, arrives early every morning to make the masa heirloom-corn tortillas and house-cut chips from scratch. The eatery, located in the Glenville Shopping Center, is petite but cheerful with a blue-tiled counter, lots of plants on the shelves, bar seating by the front windows and an open view to the kitchen. Most customers order from an app and take their meals to go, but Mike is also planning for outdoor tables on the front patio as soon as the weather is warm enough. (At the time of our visit it was still chilly.)
While the menu is focused on classics such as fresh guacamole and salsa with those house-made chips, burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas and a wide variety of tacos, there are also salads, tortas and kid-friendly options like chicken fingers and a smashburger, as well as sides such as fried crispy plantains and calabaza (sautéed veggies). Every day, the chef comes up with a board of specials such as albondigas (Mexican meatballs), enchiladas de mole and desserts like rice pudding and flan.
Daily specials include desserts like churros filled with caramel and topped with chocolate sauce and rainbow sprinkles—for the kid in all of us
The lineup of tacos goes beyond the basic. The birria, which is a favorite of Mike’s, starts with brisket that’s marinated in adobo and slow- braised in a spicy broth for the most tender and tasty meat. The chicken tinga is another comfort-food fave, the meat stirred in with tomatoes, onions and chipotles. There’s a veggie option (the calabaza), shrimp tacos, carne asada, carnitas and more, plus a taco of the day. All are served on the homemade tortillas and paired with onion, salsa, radish, lime and guac. You can order any of the taco fillings as a quesadilla instead, griddled between two masa tortillas with a healthy helping of queso Oaxaca.
Among the larger plates, our top pick was the enchiladas suizas—tortillas filled with chicken and melted queso fresco, all topped with tomatillo salsa, pickled onions and lime crema. It’s definitely a must for cheese lovers. The hearty carne asada plate is substantial enough to feed more than one: It’s loaded with grilled skirt steak, black beans and rice, a mélange of peppers plus queso Oaxaca, cabbage and chimichurri.
Another specialty at Bluebird is the tortas, which are like avocado toast with Mexican toppings, including carnitas or pollo asado on toasted Telera bread. Drinks are limited to seltzer waters, Jarritos and Mexican sodas.
Bluebird is well-priced for this quality home-style cooking. A giant burrito is $12, sides of rice and beans are just $6. If you manage to still have an appetite for dessert, there are specials (like the rice pudding), but Bluebird also happens to be located right next door to the new Longford’s Ice Cream.
BLUEBIRD TAQUERIA
21 Glenville Street, 475-303-3803;
bluebirdtacos.com