above: Special occasions call for the big cheese(s) that look as good on the table as they are sought-after by guests.
Photographs: by Garvin Burke
Feel like you’ve died and gone to cheese heaven on High Ridge
Modern Love Cheese and Provisions has a perennial air of specialness—the aroma of perfectly ripe cheeses paired with shelves stocked full of beautifully packaged jars, tins, and boxes, promise delight. The shop seems even more special during the holidays. Chris Hallowell, the Stamford native and food and wine specialist who opened the shop and neighboring coffee roaster six years ago, makes elevated entertaining easy. He and the staff can answer any question and make on-point recs about the glorious cheeses, cured meats and selection of the best sweet and savory provisions from across the country and around the world.
Here are three ways Modern Love can upgrade any celebration.
(Tip: Be sure to order ahead—a must from Thanksgiving week through New Year’s Eve.)
@modernlovecheeseandprovisions
1. Board to Cheers
Hallowell and staff curate cheeses, cured meats, pâté, dried apricots, figs, pistachios, walnuts, cornichons, sweet and savory jams, and local honeycomb, to create abundant charcuterie platters for your table.
2. (T)instant Entertaining
Nothing is simpler and more “I-picked-up-this-trick-in Madrid” than placing an open tin of preserved fish on a plate surrounded by crackers. Modern Love’s selection includes tuna belly in olive oil, lemon and chili; octopus in Galician sauce; and mackerel in curry sauce.
3. The Big Three
Throwing a big party gives hosts the opportunity to splurge on dramatic blocks of special cheeses that create what Hallowell calls “a super-cool centerpiece.” He recommends:
Serra d’ Estrella Slice off the top of the white bloomy rind, dip a spoon into the oozing, buttery cheese, drizzle on a baguette, and taste why this raw sheep’s milk cheese from Portugal, crafted since the 12th century, is world-famous.
Alp Blossom Guests start talking when they see this festive, flower-strewn cheese from the Bavarian Alps. It’s a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese, aged seven months, and the flavor’s creamy, floral and slightly funky.
Rogue River Blue A World Cheese Award champion from Oregon, this blue is aged nine to 11 months, then wrapped in pear spirit-soaked syrah grape leaves. Salt crystals punctuate the rich, fudgy texture.
GIFTS TO GO
Hallowell’s favorite stocking stuffers available at Modern Love
Balsamic Vinegar Pearls pop like caviar and release the mellow, sweet flavor of aged vinegar, an unexpected texture and flavor to add to appetizers or dessert.
Goat’s Milk Spicy Dark Chocolate Caramel is mind-blowing over ice cream or cheese. Try it with Boucheron, the ripened goat’s milk cheese.
Grapefruit and Rosemary Jam Its sweet, tart and piney flavors, is delightful on a cheese plate.
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