above: XO Scallop Handroll
photography by VENERA ALEXANDROVA
Step into barnoódle—with its shopping-center location sandwiched between a dry cleaners and a CVS—and it feels like you’ve uncovered a hidden gem. This cool Asian oasis is so new that it doesn’t even have an overhead sign yet. But word has spread quickly about the modern noodle bar and sushi spot, the second Greenwich restaurant for Seleste Tan and Chef Mogan Anthony, the husband-and-wife culinary duo behind the popular La Bistro in Cos Cob and Lady Wong Patisserie in New York.
Inside, the dining room is lined with simple wood tables and booths, while the center features high-tops beneath five large linen globe lights. The bar, encased in deep-green tile, is frequently occupied by diners and patrons enjoying cocktails. Barnoódle is open continuously, so you can stop in for a bite or drink at any time of day. A jazz-funk mix played in the background when we ate here, creating a lively vibe.
The star of barnoódle, of course, is not the décor but the food: a menu with an impressive variety of delicious dishes. The cuisine is inspired by the flavors of Southeast Asia, where the owners grew up. Both of my meals here to date have been at lunch. In addition to the noodles in the name—choose “brothy” or “kind of dry” for easy ordering—the menu features an extensive selection of smaller bites, from handrolls and a raw bar to appetizers and small plates, along with a dedicated vegetarian section, gluten-free options, salads, rice bowls and entrées.
Handrolls are a standout. Individual pieces of sushi with fish, meat or vegetable fillings atop rice are presented on mini wooden serving sticks separate from their nori wrappers, allowing the seaweed to remain crispy until each roll is ready to eat. These starters come with a little infographic on “how to build your handroll,” a simple and satisfying DIY process. With 23 varieties, there is something to appeal to every palate. Among the plant-based options, the smoky broccoli stands out, with its cashew sauce and pickled shallot. The ikura handroll features a generous portion of salmon roe and cucumber tucked inside nori dotted with pearls of rice cracker, giving each bite a pleasing crunch. Among the signature rolls, we liked the Black Label, a two-piece portion of truffle-laced beef that is so tender and delicious, with a hint of earthy flavor from the truffle nikiri. These are bites that stay with you, luring you back for another taste.
Other appetizers we enjoyed include the aromatic chili-oil chicken dumplings, which have a kick of spice and seem almost identical to the highly touted Tiger Mom dumplings at La Bistro. The chicken bao buns are filled with lightly fried chicken in an Asian barbecue sauce, making for a substantial portion. The kani crab appetizer, recommended by our server, was especially refreshing on a hot day, with jicama, daikon pickle and tobiko complementing the crab. On the salad side, the Thai Papaya’s julienned carrots, cucumbers and peanuts lend plenty of crunch, tossed in a ginger-tamarind dressing with a hint of heat. You can add salmon, chicken, steak or shrimp to any of the salads for a meal-sized portion. Though we only scratched the surface of the noodle selection, the yuzu kosho beef noodles were outstanding: noodles coated in a lush green pesto with spinach, basil and lime zest, with crispy shallots and candied peanuts rounding out the dish.
With the bar as part of the focus here, barnoódle also offers a strong list of craft cocktails, including unexpected options such as the Violette Milk Punch with coconut milk, yuzu and purple sweet potato, as well as drinks like Fire & Smoke, Mogan’s favorite, made with Amaras Mezcal, ginger, honey, lemon and candied ginger. Among the non-alcoholic offerings, we liked the Quiet Heat, made with Seedlip, miso honey, lemon and ginger beer. Thai iced tea, iced matcha lattes, and iced green and black teas are available too. Dessert is simple: green-tea ice cream and other flavors that change daily.
BARNOÓDLE
1247 East Putnam Avenue, Riverside,
203-990-0072; barnoodle.com