Photographs by Katharine Calderwood
PEARL, A RESTORED VINTAGE WORKBOAT, HAS DOCKED ON THE FIVE MILE RIVER AND IS OFFERING A ONE-OF-A-KIND WATERFRONT EXPERIENCE IN FAIRFIELD COUNTY.
The historic vessel has been lovingly transformed into a floating oyster bar serving refreshing drinks, a raw bar and light fare. It’s a casual, sporty space with a six-seat high-top table. Along the port and starboard sides, stools swivel so guests can socialize while also enjoying the prime riverfront scenery. A retractable grey and white striped awning, providing shade and shelter, hangs from a refurbished wooden boom.
The new oyster bar will be docked just behind Rowayton Seafood (Pearl will not be cruising this year). Standing on deck, guests feel the fresh salt-water air, see the glistening river and relax to the rhythmic motion of the boat on the water. Pearl’s flag flies from the restored wood mast while happy tropical music plays against the percussion of the bartender shaking icy cocktails. The menu offers a curated selection from Rowayton Seafood, easy to eat from take-out containers while standing or perched on a stool.
A perfect afternoon spent aboard Pearl—enjoying good company, fresh seafood, specialty cocktails and breathtaking views.
NAVAL HISTORY
The arrival of Pearl on the Five Mile River is the culmination of years of searching, designing, planning and building. A few years ago, Kevin Conroy shared his idea for a floating oyster bar with his friend Norm Bloom, owner of Copps Island Oyster Company, a regular supplier of fresh seafood to the restaurant and market.
One day in September of 2023, Conroy’s phone rang and Bloom said, “I found the boat you’re looking for.” He had spotted the 40-foot oyster and clam dredge in a Milford boatyard. She was in bad shape, but the size was right and there was potential.
Originally built in 1946 as supply vessel for the U.S. Navy by Peterson Builders, an American shipbuilding company that was the main contractor for the Navy, she was converted into a clam and oyster dredging boat in 1960, and spent the following decades harvesting fresh seafood in the Long Island Sound.
For the last 20 years, Chuck Viens in Port Milford captained and ran her for his Charles Island Oyster Farms. After Conroy bought the boat, then named Mohawk, Viens agreed to work on the restoration. Conroy designed the layout.
“Working with my restaurant team and project manager, we designed the bar area to fit refrigeration equipment, a tap beer area, custom bar shucking station and prep area,” says Conroy.
The entire Conroy family pitched in their areas of expertise to transform Mohawk into Pearl and her new role as floating oyster bar. Son Wilson planned the operational and practical aspects of serving guests food and drink on a boat. Brand Manager Barbara and daughter Grace oversaw aesthetics, branding and marketing.
The renovation grew more complicated as the project evolved.
“We started at the bow of the boat and worked out way back to the stern,” says Conroy.
Viens and his team removed all the steel oyster rigging and booms to make room for the bar and refrigeration equipment. They tore up the old decking and replaced it with non-slip fiberglass and grey grit finish. They pulled down the old railings, found and milled wood to build higher railings and installed the bar top. “They are much harder to maintain,” says Conroy, of the wood surfaces. “But they’re authentic for the boat’s era, and they look great.”
In the wheelhouse, they restored the original mahogany siding and had more milled to match. They rebuilt the engine, installed a generator, new wiring, electronics and radar, a new shaft and propeller and new battery charging system.
Behind the wheelhouse, Conroy designed a space that is no ordinary “head” (the nautical term for a bathroom). A skylight sends sunlight and shadows bouncing across the white bead board.
“I wanted it to be functional, but to feel and look authentic to the era,” says Conroy. “People say, ‘That is a beautiful bathroom for a boat!’”
WAYPOINT: ROWAYTON
The United States Coast Guard has now designated Pearl a “Vessel of Historical Interest.”
Per Coast Guard regulations, Pearl is allowed 30 guests on the boat at any given time, so reservations are required, and there is a time-limit for being aboard—although it allows plenty of time for guests to soak in the atmosphere, have a drink and enjoy some fresh seafood. “We want to give as many guests as possible the opportunity to experience Pearl,” Barbara Conroy says of the 90-minute time limit.
Whether guests reserve for weekend lunch, a sunset drink or evening dinner, there’s only one challenge: No one wants to disembark. But no worries—once ashore, guests can always extend their experience in Rowayton Seafood’s large, covered dock patio, interior dining rooms or bar. Just keep the party going with a second rezy at the ready.
SHIP RULES & REGS
BOTTOMS UP
Pearl is for adults, 21 and up. No children or pets are allowed onboard. And no jumping off the boat.
NOW SERVING
Pearl is available for standard, standing-room reservations (1.5 hours aboard the boat) Wednesday through Friday from 4:00 to 9:00 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 9:00 p.m.
BOOK AHEAD
Reservations are required and can be made up to a week in advance. Guests may book a private dockside event with passed appetizers, platters and raw bar.
DRESS CODE: Although docked, Pearl is affected by the slant of the tides and the weather. Shirts and shoes are required. Flat shoes are recommended. Don’t forget sunscreen and (pro tip) wear secure hats and sunglasses, so they don’t wind up “in the drink.”
NOTE: A limited number of private events are accepted each week. Pearl will remain dockside and unavailable for cruises. This is an open, outdoor venue that might close because of bad weather or private bookings. Guests may make reservations and inquiries at RowaytonSeafood.com/Pearl.
GALLEY MENU
There is limited seating onboard, but you don’t need sea legs to stand—perch on a stool or, if you are lucky, snag a seat at the long high-top table.
The menu focuses on Rowayton Seafood favorites A raw bar including Copps Island oysters, clams and shrimp; chips and dips (RS’s house-made potato chips with whipped ricotta, smoked seafood dip, tuna tartare or splurge on the caviar); fried favorites including calamari, cod and truffle fries. Our favorite when we tried it last October was the tuna sashimi flatbread. And yes, of course, Pearl offers lobster rolls.
The bar menu features three signature cocktails:
PEARL’S PUNCH
Rum blended with pineapple, orange and cherry juice with a dark-rum floater
WALK THE PLANK
Spicy, jalapeño-infused tequila with lime and pear juices
SHE SELLS SEASHELLS
Aperol infused with strawberries, vodka, lemon and grapefruit juices.
Limited additional cocktails include a Dark & Stormy, Aperol Spritz, gin and tonics and martinis. Local beer in draft and cans, and wine by the glass, including Rowayton Water rosé, sancerre, prosecco, chardonnay, cabernet and pinot noir.